Eat & Drinks

Watering Holes: A Review

Drink-Thirty. A few bars to peruse.

Recently went through the July issue of Outside Magazine which, you should know, is a killer read. Orcas attacking their trainers, Lance getting ready to pedal again, and a collection of stories on why moving water (yea, rivers) are worth revamping and protecting.
In addition, Outside provided a guide on watering holes. I was especially interested in this matter as I’m exceptionally experienced in this subject, at least through the Pacific Northwest and the West.

Overall, Outside covered 38 prime drinking spots, only six of which I’ve visited. Whoa, are you kidding? So, what did they get right and what did they miss? Here’s my take, for what it’s worth.

HITS

Salty Dawg, Homer, Alaska

Outside got it right. This is a classic drinking establishment and I’m sure the evenings are something to see. I’ve only visited during daylight hours and the first time I did so some dude was staring out the window at me and a couple friends as we exited the rig.The Salty Dog in Homer.The Salty Dog in Homer.

He moved his face closer to the window and stuck his tongue out to touch the glass and then lapped the thing around. I was getting really uncomfortable with his shit-eating grin and that damned tongue when I noticed that a giant fly was walking on the outside of the glass. That’s what he was doing; painting a portrait of insanity by making like he was eating that fly!

We waltzed in and I shook the dude’s hand. We bought him a round and that’s when we decided we’d landed on a true freak. “I can get you anything you want,” he said. “In 15 minutes.”

“I’m cool, dude,” I replied, “I’ve got a job interview in a half-hour.” This was about our third stop on a drive down from Soldotna where we’d closed another bar at 6 a.m.

“Ok, well here’s my card,” he said. And out the door he went.

The Salty Dawg is a tourist trap for sure, but it’s also really cool place to check out if you’re in Homer.

Claim Jumper Saloon, Ennis, Montana

Ah, a hometown drinking hole for me. I live about 75 yards from the Claimjumper’s front door and even when I’m not there I can hear what’s going on while resting in bed, reading on summer evenings with the window open.

I was single when I moved to Ennis and I remember thinking, What are the locals complaining about? There are options galore here. And I still believe that. A summer night, with people driving over from Bozeman to fish, and with tourists headed to Yellowstone, and with a bevy of local character, there’s no downtime. The owners, Brad and Kelly Dilorio, are equally entertaining, Brad being a fun-loving, major presence at the bar. He’s a big, bald dude who you can’t miss and he makes a trip to the Jumper worth your time. He also make you pay if there’s a ruckus. And there often is; one time I was talking up a cutie and all of a sudden some dude landed headfirst on my Doc Martin kicks. I looked to my left and saw Brad with a stranglehold on a dude. True western bar here so keep you smartass in check if you value your teeth.

Seattle's Steelhead Diner

Serving great eats, true-angler style

Every once in a while I feel like a really, really lucky guy. And that was the case in July when I went to the Dean River in British Columbia. But prior to the trip I was already feeling lucky. Why? For one, because I actually made a flight from Bozeman to Seattle after breaking down on my way to the airport. And second, because Andrew Bennett, owner of Deneki Outdoors, hosted me and the other guys headed with us to the Dean, for dinner at the Steelhead Diner.Swank decor, angler-friendly.Swank decor, angler-friendly.

The Steelhead Diner is located in Seattle at Pike's Place market, which is one of the coolest areas of Seattle. It is upscale, yo, with a wall of windows offering a great view of adjacent businesses and all the action at Pike Place. Also, there's a view of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains. The decor says fly fishing.

There are lots of flies located above the tables that are contained in glass and labled with the pattern name and tyer. And there are some noteworthy names to be seen. In addition, a private back room hosts some symbolic, historic photos of steelhead and steelhead anglers. And, in one corner, there's a photo of owner Kevin Davis with a beaming smile and a hefty, fly-caught steelhead from the Dean River. If that wasn't something to get all of us excited about the trip, I don't know what would do it. Maybe Davis personally visiting our table a few times that night, making sure we were being taken care of properly while telling tales of his Dean River adventure. You could see a glossed over dreamy look in his eyes and it wasn't from the wine —he was working. You could tell it was from reflection, from images in his head reminding him of a special week in life.

I think that Dean River steelhead was Davis' fist and he's been hooked ever since. Word has it that Davis spent a couple years on the Stilliguamish casting flies for steelhead and never got an eat. That's when Bennett took pitty and hauled Davis' ass to the Dean. Apparently Davis stood in one run almost the entire time he was on the Dean and ended up taking that beautiful chromer. It should be noted, Davis is a guy who cares about fish, only serving sustainable species and he wouldn't touch a wild steelhead if some gillnetter dropped if off, free of charge, at his door. Even if it were a 30-pounder. Fly fishing is a small business and many of us are friends. I think it makes sense for us to support each other and Davis is no exception—cool dude, dedicated to the sport and conservation, serves some of the best food in

Excuse to Drink

Western Rivers Conservancy partners with Sierra Nevada

It's not like any of us needed an excuse to swill a few cold brews during the heat of summer, but Wild Rivers Conservancy, a group based out of Portland, Oregon, that is protecting and restoring the trout, salmon and steelhead rivers we love, worked a deal that serves us well.

Drink of The Week

The Gibson

You have to read this full post! Pure brilliance. A call to arms. A denouncement of teetotalers.

But first, the dirt.

The Gibson is as basic as they come, a pure shot of gin to the veins. It's a perfect choice after a busy day when things may or may not have gone exactly your way, say, when the guide was late, you snapped two rods, and it hailed and rained on your ass for two hours straight, which is when you discovered that the protective coating on your rainjacket had melted off when your spouse put it in the dryer on Cottons/High! Pour the gin, follow with vermouth, spear a few onions and drop them in. Wait three minutes, if you can, stir and sip.

This was the favored drink of playwright Eugene O'Neill who was born with a chip on his shoulder after being delivered into the theater world where he developed a disdain for commercial realities. He strove to create works of integrity and did so with brilliance. His credits include, The Iceman Cometh; The Emperor Jones; and The Harry Ape.

Eugene O'NeillEugene O'Neill

 

It's amazing that O'Neill got anything done because he was wilder than any of us. He went to Princeton for a year but got crazy on absinthe, pulled a gun on a friend, destroyed all his furniture, and called it quits. Then he moved into a drinking den above a gin distillery where he swilled raw whiskey for breakfast. When his money ran out it's reported that he drank wood alcohol mixed with sarsaparilla and benzine. Those experiences come through in The Iceman Cometh.O'Neill's grave.O'Neill's grave.

 You have to wonder how much that mixture messed with his head. He was married three times, the first time to Kathleen Jenkins. But he left her to travel and when he returned she was pregnant. He left again, to Buenos Aires, without ever seeing his son. Kathleen divorced him and when O'Neill finally came back from traveling he moved in with, get this, his slacker father and his morphine-addicted mother. Not surprisingly, many of his works focus on struggles for personal identity and family disasters.

Here's the part you really have to read: from The Iceman Cometh, 1940

Drink of the Week

Moscow Mule

I'm sitting in the Melrose Bar a couple weeks ago. It's 8 a.m. and all of a sudden some copper mug rocks off its post and clanks on the floor. My friend grabs his head and says "Ouch." He's staring into the maw of a bloody Mary.

I ask the barmaid, "What's that mug for?" And she replies, "Moscow mule." Say what? "How about you pour me one?"Melrose, Mont., 8 a.m. Moscow Mule introduction.Melrose, Mont., 8 a.m. Moscow Mule introduction.

That was my introduction to an old drink.

The next day I'm fishing the Beaverhead and I begin some banter with a guy on the other side of the stream. Pretty soon he says, "Thomas, I'm going to wade across the river and kick your ass." And here he comes.

By the time he gets to the boat I have a High Life for him and I rip him over the gunnel while he hangs onto my forearm. Turns out he's the former mayer of Telluride, Colorado. We chat and he says, "Stop by the Lion's Den in Dillon. That's where I'll be."

Couple hours later that's where I am and when the former mayor asks, "What can I buy you?" I reply, "What is that you're drinking."

"Moscow mule," he replies.

"I'll take one of those."

A few days later the Mule reares it's beautiful head again; I was spending Memorial Day weekend with the boys at Yellowdog Fly Fishing Adventures letting our posse of young kids tear up the banks of the lower Madison while we talked about world fly-fishing destinations and the good deals to be had these days. That's when Ian Davis whips out some copper mugs.

I say, "No way. Moscow mule?"

Ian, taking my prompt says, "Yea, you want one." Well, I suppose so. It would have been ungracious to decline, right?

I see a lot of Moscow Mules in my future. They are a quick drink to make, they are super refreshing, which makes them a great summer thirst quencher, and you don't need much in the way of materials to impress. Copper mugs are fashionable, but they aren't required.

Drink of the Week: Firewater

Moonshine Madness

Maybe I shouldn't admit this, but I once built a still under my grandparent's deck. I got a few dribbles of liquid, not much, but enough to have probably caused my frustrations with math.

St. Pat's Black & Tan

The Black and Tan

You can’t beat a straight Guinness on Saint Patrick’s Day, but I’ve always found the black and tan to only up the enjoyment level.

Most people, it seems, believe that the black and tan is named for color alone, but it was actually named after a group of Churchill’s British Soldiers stationed in Ireland with mismatched uniforms.A match made in heaven.A match made in heaven.

When cozying up to a bar after a great day on the water, there may not be a better way to start off the evening than with a black and tan. I’m especially fond of them in winter when, despite their actual chilled state, they seem to warm the bones.

To make the traditional black and tan chill a couple cans of Guinness Draught for at least a half-hour. Then, half-fill a standard chilled pint glass with Bass Ale. Pour the Guinness over a spoon on top of the Bass, allowing for a good head. What you end up with is a beautiful, rich, creamy beer with the Guinness resting on top of the tan beer. The traditional black and tan tastes awesome and offers the advantages of both beers in the same confinement.

One famous person who liked black and tans, and everything else for that matter, was author James Cozzens. It’s reported that he drank a double

Bloody Mary

Morning, afternoon or evening—an appropriate option

I can't drink bloody Mary's very often but when I do I think, Why don't I swill these more often?

One guy who could drink them at a rapid pace was the author Raymond Carver who I was always attracted to because he's a Washington boy, having achieved much fame from the banks of the Strait of Juan de Fuca in Port Angeles. His writing was dark, as I understood it, dealing with topics ranging from marital dismay to abusive parents and, of course, alcoholism. What I respect most about Carver's writing is his ability to create anxiety within the reader. Read What We Talk About When We Talk About Love and you'll see what I mean.Bad ass man.Bad ass man.

If you haven't heard about Carver you've had your head in the sand. He's one of America's greatest writers, master of the short story, and throngs still idolize him, despite his death, at 50, in 1988. One of my friends, a dude named Corky Luster, once took a pack of friends and did a Raymond Carver tour, boozing at the bars Carver preferred, and cruising by his old place in Port Angeles. Now that is an excuse to take a trip. Reason to be there, wherever that might be. Pick an author, Carver or someone else, research their history and do a tour. What a great excuse to visit the local haunts of interesting people and to drink some bloody Mary's while you're at it!

Carver, of course, was a raging alcoholic, following in his father's footsteps. He penned words about the blue-collar life, because that's what he lived prior to his ascent to fame. One of his quotes goes like this: "You never start out life with the intention of becoming a bankrupt or an alcoholic."

One of the most famous stories about Carver was his relationship with another great author, John Cheever. They met in Iowa and presently became teachers and trainwrecks on alcohol. It's said that worried students would invite the two to dinner just to make sure they ate.

Ok, on to the drink. Here's the concoction. Enjoy. GT

 

2 oz. Vodka

1/2 oz. lemon juice

1/4 oz. Worcestershire

3 dashes Tobasco

1/4 tsp. grated horseradish

pinch cracked pepper, pinch salt, pinch celery salt

Top with tomoato juice

Add celery stalk and lime wedge

Drink of the Week

Bukowski's Favorite

I wouldn't have been proud to have Charles Bukowski as a son; he tried to smack women, was a raging alcoholic and was as crude as men get. I've dropped my fair share of F-bombs, but there's a sure limit when cursing leans from a directed, shocking and sometimes comedic act to just poor taste and an indication of one's intelligence or lack thereof.

On the other hand, Bukowski was a genius poet and, given his addiction and attitude, and that he worked for the United States Postal Service, it was a miracle he didn't go postal before going postal was cool. For most of his life he denounced that institution, but at least he didn't kill anyone.
Bukowski is known as a drinking, puking, pissing, fighting fall-down drunk poet, who started in the a.m and ended in the a.m., too. I'm not sure that is something to be proud of.

Despite those woes, he was a productive writer and penned numerous books, one of my favorites being a collection of poems called, Betting on The Muse, which Alaskan author Troy Letherman introduced me to. Letherman is so enamored with Bukowski's work and was so eager for me to read Bukowski, that he penned a lengthy Bukowski poem on lined pieces of paper and presented it to me. I've thrown away a lot of papers over the years, but I've held those as treasure.


A few of the lines in that poem, An Empire of Coins, which aren't nearly as influential in this broken context, go as follows:

the legs are gone and the hopes—the love of outpouring
and I haven't shaved in sixteen days
but the mailman still makes his rounds and
water still comes out of the faucet and I have a photo of
myself with glazed and milky eyes full of simple music
in golden trunks and 8 oz. gloves when I made the
semi-finals
only to be taken out by a German brute who should have been locked in a cage for the insane and allowed to drink blood

and this:

"darling," says one of the girls, "you've got to snap out of it, we're running out of MONEY. How do you want your toast?"
light or dark?
a woman's a woman, I say, and I put my binoculars between
her
kneecaps and I can see
where empires have fallen

No, I don't think Bukowski would have been a role model son, but he felt and wrote about it well. If you read his work you'll identify with some of the frustration—it's a life and life in general wrapped into those pages. I'm not sure what Bukowski most liked to drink—probably it was always the next one he might have, whatever it might be—but some have suggested that the boilermaker was his big ticket. If you're into pageantry, you can pour a shotglass of whiskey into a glass of lager and drink a boilermaker that way. If you're barebones and just want to get it down, let your stomach do the mixing.

BOILERMAKER
2 oz. bourbon, rye or blended whiskey

8 oz. lagerOk, maybe that's a good son.Ok, maybe that's a good son.

In with the chaser,In with the chaser,In with the shooter.In with the shooter.Down the hatch, shooter central.Down the hatch, shooter central.The pain is worth it, ask Bukowski.The pain is worth it, ask Bukowski.

 

 

DRINK OF THE WEEK

The next afternoon, exhibiting a severe cold, my friend self-medicated with a steady parade of the "white death." After a week of that debauchery we were flying from Anchorage to Seattle and through slits in his eyes and a tongue that barely minded, he articulated sincerely, "I hope the plane crashes."

That friend and Lebowski aren't the only ones who favor White Russians—the critic and essayist Edmund Wilson, who penned the Lexicon of Prohibition and To the Finland Station, was a great proponent of the drink. He also was a mentor to such talent as Faulkner, Fitzgerald and Hemingway. Which means, he was a true drinker. His most famous quote, which I can relate to, is this: "I'm afraid that if I had a little more money, I'd decide to spend all the rest of my life drinking beer."